Visiting Tainan was one of the trips I'd been looking forward to the most during our recent visit.
A friend of mine in NYC is from Tainan, and even though we never talked about it much, the more I learned about Taiwan's history, the more I understood why Tainan is probably the most iconic and lowkey city in Taiwan: Tainan was the island's first developed city. That kind of history runs deep, and you can feel it the second you arrive.
By the time we made it here on our week-long trip through Taiwan, we were a bit overwhelmed by how much there was to take in. So, here's my full Tainan City Guide to help you navigate this city before you go or maybe even after.
Get to Know Tainan
Long before Tainan was even a city, it was land to the Siraya people. The indigenous Siraya people lived along this part of the coast for thousands of years before anyone from China or Europe ever set foot here — evidence of human presence in the area dates back 20,000 to 30,000 years!
Everything shifted in 1624, when the Dutch East India Company landed in what's now called Anping and built Fort Zeelandia as a trading base. A second fort, Fort Provintia, went up nearby — you'll recognize the name if you've read my Provintia Hotel review, since the hotel takes its name from the very same fort still standing a short walk away as Chihkan Tower. For a while, this stretch of coastline was Dutch Taiwan.
That ended in 1662, when Ming loyalist Koxinga (Zheng Chenggong) laid siege to Fort Zeelandia for nine months and forced the Dutch to surrender, closing out 38 years of Dutch rule.
Tainan became the capital of Koxinga's short-lived Kingdom of Tungning, and then, starting in 1683, the capital of Taiwan under the Qing Dynasty — a role it held for over 200 years, earning it the nickname "the Capital City" that locals still use today. Qing-era Tainan is also where a huge share of the city's temples and shrines come from, which is part of why the city feels so different from anywhere else in Taiwan.
The capital eventually moved to Taipei, and Tainan was under Japanese colonial rule (1895–1945) before Taiwan came under the Republic of China's control after WWII. Through all of it, Tainan kept its identity instead of losing it — which is probably why it's earned the nickname "the Phoenix City."
Today, Tainan is known as two things at once: Taiwan's oldest city, and its food capital.
Locals will tell you both in the same breath, and frankly, they're not wrong — this is the city where Taiwanese cuisine as we know it really took shape, and where old-city character and genuinely great food live side by side on every block.
Map of Tainan
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Best Time to Visit
Getting Around
TRA
Take the TRA to get in or out of the city. Unlike the HSR, which only runs along the West Coast, Taiwan Railway goes all around the island, and it drops you at Tainan Station, right in the city center.
HSR
The HSR station sits farther out of town, so you'll need a car ride over. That's what we did to get from Tainan to Taichung.
Walking
Tainan is pretty walkable, and it's the best way to see everything. Watch your step, though, because the sidewalks are uneven.
Taxi + Uber
Local yellow taxis are everywhere, and Uber works in the city, so it's an easy backup for longer distances or late nights.
Tip: grab an EasyCard for trains and buses.
Read my EasyCard guide →Where to Dine
Da Dong Night Market 大東夜市
📍 No. 276, Sec. 1, Linsen Rd, East District | Mon, Tue, Fri evenings
We ate a lot: grilled squid, scallion pancake, cheese potato, and papaya milk to wash it down. We also got butter-grilled rice cake (黃油烤年糕). The stinky tofu stall in the middle of the night market is the best I’ve had in a very longggg time.
If you’re interested in playing games, there are some traditional games in the back.
The market only runs three nights a week, so plan ahead before you go so you don’t miss out.
— Iconic Tainan bites to try —
Beef Soup (牛肉湯)
Paper-thin slices of fresh beef get cooked by ladling scalding broth over them. It's a classic Tainan breakfast dish.
Savory Porridge (鹹粥)
A warm rice porridge, often topped with fish or seafood. It's gentle on an early morning stomach.
Milkfish (虱目魚)
The signature fish of southern Taiwan, served as soup, in porridge, or grilled. It's bony, so go slowly.
Tainan Rice Cake (碗粿)
A savory steamed rice cake. The Tainan version is brown from soy sauce instead of white.
Danzai Noodles (擔仔麵)
Small bowls of noodles in a savory, shrimp-forward broth with seasoned minced pork. They started as street-vendor food carried on shoulder poles, which is where the name comes from.
Eel Noodles (鱔魚意麵)
Stir-fried eel over soft egg noodles with a sweet-and-sour sauce.
Tomato with Ginger Sauce (薑汁番茄)
Chilled tomato slices with a sweet, gingery dipping sauce, sold at dessert and fruit shops. It sounds odd, but it's refreshing after a heavy meal.
Almond Tofu (杏仁豆腐)
A cool, silky almond dessert, and a light way to end a meal.
Where to Explore
Shennong Street 神農街
📍 Shennong Street, West Central District
In the Qing dynasty, this street was the entrance to Tainan’s Five Channels (五條港) river ports, so merchants passed through here to reach the city. Today, it’s one of the best-preserved old streets in Tainan, lined with small shops that mix vintage finds with local makers.
Head inside to peek at every shop because every single shop is uniquely different. There were some edgy shops, some streetwear shops, some gacha shops, and so much more.
Make sure to respect each shop, since some don’t allow photos inside.
Experiences You'll Love
Anping Walking Tour + Silver Ring DIY at Adosi
You meet at the tour office, get a quick history of Tainan inside with a vintage map, then walk the old historic Anping area while your guide explains the story behind each alley and street.
You’ll probably be seeing a lot of sword lion (劍獅) artwork — which your guide will cover a little bit about them during the tour — but, long story short: Legend says, during the Qing dynasty, soldiers hung lion-emblazoned shields outside their doors, with swords set near the lion’s mouth, to ward off evil spirits, bring good fortune, and protect the home.
The tour skips the iconic spots, so if that’s what you’re after, this isn’t it. By the end of this walking tour, you’ll have a better sense of why Tainan is Tainan.
After the tour, you’ll walk over to Adosi and make your own silver ring! I made a pinky ring, since I never found one that suited my style. Now I have one that does.
One catch: the whole experience is in Chinese. Bring a Mandarin-speaking friend, a translator, or even ask if they have a translator themselves. Book it on Klook →
Where to Stay
Taiwan Vlog
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thingstodointainan: Best Time to Visit Tainan
Wikipedia: Tainan
Travel Tainan: Cuisines
Travel Tainan: Shennong Street
Last Updated: 11.04.2026
From a "closed" restaurant hiding a speakeasy to a gin bar tucked inside an old apartment building, Tainan's nightlife scene is quietly one of the best in Taiwan. Here's where to find it (fair warning: you'll probably get lost).